Coat-collar.



J. w. SMALLEY.

COAT COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 23. Ian. RENEWED FEB. 28. 1916.

lat-ent-edSept. 26, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

I. W. SMALLEY.

con cdLLAR. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 23.19ll. RENEWED FEB. 28, 9]6.

lmntedse t. 26,1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2 JOHN W. SMALLEY, OF NGRFOLK, MASSACHUSETTS.

COAT-COLLAB- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 26, 1916.

Application filed June 23, 1911, Serial No. 634,862. Renewed February 28, 1916. Serial No. 81,061.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, J OHN W. SMALLEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Norfolk, county of Norfolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Coat-Collars, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to collars for coats and has for its object to provide a novel collar which is so made that the stripes in the front of the collar will match the stripes in the lapel of the coat and the stripes in the back of the collar will match the stripes in the back of the coat. In making coats there are two ways in which a collar is com monly cut. According to one method the collar is cut so that when it is sewed into the coat the stripes in the back thereof will match the stripes in the back of the coat, but the stripes in the front do not match the stripes in the lapel. According to the other method the collar is cut so that the stripes in the front will match the stripes in the lapel, but in this case the stripes in the back do not match the stripes in the back of the coat. In the latter case the collar is made with a seam at the back.

The object of my invention is to provide a coat collar of novel construction which when sewed onto the coat has the stripes matching the coat both in the front and in the back, thus giving the coat a much better appearance than is possible with the old construction.

The features wherein my invention resides will be more fully hereinafter described and then pointed out in the appended claim.

Referring to the drawings wherein I have shown one embodiment of my invention, Figure l is a perspective view of the front of a coat having my improved collar and showing the stripes in the front of the collar matching the stripes in the lapel; Fig. 2 is a back view showing the stripes in the back of the collar matching the stripes in the back of the coat; Fig. 3 is a view of the top part of the front facing of a coat showing a collar out according to the common practice so that the stripes in the back of the collar will match the stripes in the back of the coat; Fig. 1 is a similar view showing the other known way of cutting a collar so that the stripes in the front of the collar will match the stripes in the front of the coat; Fig. 5

shows the manner of cutting my improved collar; Fig. 6 shows the way in which the stripes of the collar match the stripes in the back of the coat; 7 is a view showing the manner in which the collar is applied to the front and back section of the coat.

Referring now to Figs. 1 and 2 which show a coat embodying my invention, 1 designates generally a coat which, with the exception of the collar, is made in usual manner, and which is shown as made of a cloth having the stripes 2 therein. In cutting the coat front from a figured goods it .is customary to cut the front section and the front facing 6 so that the stripes, if the goods have stripes, or so that the line of the figures in the goods extends substantially parallel to the front edge 3 of the coat and to the edge 4 of the lapel 5, and also to cut the back of the coat so that the stripes will extend vertically therein. The front facing is always out with the neck gorge 8 which extends to the shoulder point 9 and the lining 7 of the back section is cut to form a continuation of the neck gorge as at 10. Heretofore so far as I am aware the collar for the coat has always been cut.

as shown in either Figs. 3 or 1.

In Fig. 3 the collar which is designated 11 is cut from a pattern which has the concave upper edge 12 and the convex lower edge 13 and with the stripes 2 of the goods running perpendicular to said edges at the central portion of the collar. When a collar of this sort is sewed to the front facing of a coat the front portion 14 of the collar joins the lapel in the manner shown in Fig. 3, and when it is sewed in place the stripes 2 at the front portion will stand at an angle to the stripes in the lapel. The stripes'at the back of the collar, however, will come substantially parallel with the stripes in the back of the coat. If the stripe in the goods is a prominent one this angular relation between the stripe in the front of the collar and the lapel detracts from the appearance of the coat.

The other common way of cutting the collar is shown in Fig. 1.. According to this method the collar is formed in two sections 23 which are seamed together at the center of the back at 15 and each section is formed with the concave upper edge 12 and the convex lower edge 13 and is cut from the goods in such a way that the stripes 2 extend at an inclination to the edges 12 and 13, as

shown in Fig. 4. When a collar made in this way is sewed into the coat the stripes in the front portion 14 can be made to match the stripes in the lapel, but the stripes at the back of the collar where the two parts are seamed together incline downwardly and outwardly from the seam 15 and do not match at all with the stripes at the back of the coat.

After considerable study I have devised a collar which is so made that when it is sewed into the coat the stripes will match both in the front and rear, as stated above. My improved collar is shown in Figs. 5 and 6, and is formed with the upper edge 17 that will be cut to conform to the design of the garment to be made, but will preferably have a convex curvature, and the lower edge 18 which is concave for the greater portion at least of its length and is sewed to the coat. It will be understood, of course, that the particular shape of the lower edge 18 at the extreme ends of the collar may be varied somewhat, depending on the shape of the outer end of the neck gorge 8 of the coat front. The collar is cut from a single piece of goods in such a way that the stripes 2 will run substantially perpendicular to the edges 17 and 18 at the central part of the collar and the ends 19. of the collar may be cut more or less parallel with the stripe according to the tastes of the designer. The front facing 6 and back lining 7 of my improved coat are cut in usual fashion with a neck gorge 8 of the usual curvature. In sewing my collar into the coat the collar is sewed to the neck gorge of the front facing and to the back lining and in carrying out this operation the end 19 of the collar is properly positioned relative to the neck gorge 8 with the stripes in the collar matching those in the lapel as shown in Fig. 5, and the lower edge 18 is sewed to the neck gorge 8 to the shoulder point 9 and the portion of the edge 18 at the center of the collar is sewed to the neck gorge 10 of the back lining, as seen in Fig. 7. The dotted line 20 indicates the line on which the collar is folded. V] hen the coat lining and front facing with its collar attached are sewedv into the coat and the collar is folded over on the line 20 it will be found that the stripes in the front of the collar will match the stripes in the lapel, whilethe stripes in the back of the collar will match the stripes in the back of the coat, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. This result is secured by the particular construction and shape of the collar shown in Figs. 5 and 6 and without stretching or distorting the collar in any way.

In order to insure that the stripes can be readily made to match at the front of the coat I propose to cut my front facing 6 slightly wider than is necessary so that when the collar is being fitted the front facing can be moved out or in slightly to bring the stripes into proper position to match with the collar.

My improved collar is equally applicable for use in ladies or childrens garments as well as in mens coats, and by the term coat as herein used I mean to include any garment having a collar and a lapel whether for man, woman or child.

A coat embodying my invention has a much neater and more attractive appearance than a coat made in accordance with the methods now in vogue.

My invention can also be embodied in garments made from diagonals, stripes and all figured goods.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is In a coat, the combination with a front facing having the usual concave neck gorge and the back lining, of a one-piece collar section cut to present in its natural unstretched condition a suitably-shaped top edge and a bottom edge having at its central portion a concaved curve that extends toward each end and with the warp threads thereof extending perpendicularly to said top and bottom edges at the central portion of the collar, said concaved bottom edge being sewed directly to the top edge of the back lining and to the neck gorge of the front facing, and said collar being folded on a line 20 which has a curvature of smaller radius than that of the curve at the bottom edge of the collar and which intersects said bottom edge adjacent the ends of the collar whereby the bottom edge of-the collar when it is turned-clown will in its natural unstretched condition be sufiiciently longer than the line of fold so that said collar will lie smooth without being distorted or forced out of shape.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN W. SMALLEY. Witnesses:

LOUIS C. SMITH,. THOMAS J. DRUMMOND.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the "Commissioner of Patents.

' Washington, D. 6. 

